Rio – hated it, loved it!
“If you see someone appear with a machine gun then don´t take their photo.” These were the first words we heard from our guide when we went to visit a favela (Rio’s version of a shanty town where one in four of Rio’s residents are said to live). The second thing he said was “See that guy behind me in the black shorts with the walkie talkie, he is a drug dealer.” After that tense start we managed to pass through the favela unscathed though, getting a good insight as to how its occupants live. Like most of the 1024 favelas in Rio, the one we visited was built on a hill. We rode to the top of the favela on the back of a motorbike then walked down through the mismash of houses.
Inside the favela
Favela
Within an hour of arriving in Rio we hated the place! Fresh from a 19 hour overnight bus we headed to the taxi stand, but convinced we were being offered an overpriced tourist rate, decided to get a bus to our hostel instead. It wasn’t until a bit later that we realised we had no idea how to get to our hostel by bus, and before we knew it we were wandering aimlessly around downtown Rio. Tired, hungry, carrying all our bags in near 40ºC heat. It was when the sweat started dripping down the outside of my trousers that my hate feelings towards Rio really kicked in!
However, two days later, when we drinking caipirinhas on Copacabana beach, having admired the spectacular setting of the city from the top of Sugar Loaf mountain, I decided I had been a bit harsh on the place!
Enjoying a caipirinha
View from Sugar loaf
Rio from above
Our trip up Sugar loaf
Not really!
Overlooking Copacabana
At the top of Sugar loaf mountain
No visit to Rio de Janeiro would be complete without checking out the 38m Christ the Redeemer statue which looks out over the city from the top of the 710m peak of Corcovado. We also found plenty of time to stroll along Ipanema and Copacabana beaches and of course swim in the sea.
Christ the Redeemer
Ipanema beach
you just can’t beat a caiprinha or 2 on ipanema beach watching volleyball – be careful not to go overboard with 3 though, you might not remember the rest of the night! How’s the surf? We only had one good sunny day on the beach when there, but it was probably my favourite day!
Yes I could feel the effects after one! The surf was good, well I’ve never surfed but the waves were good to mess around jumping over, and we had plenty of sun to keep us happy!
So come on Rod, How sweet was Rae to you when she was walking with all the bags in 40 degrees of heat and no sleep.?
Rae I can’t believe how well you look sipping your caipirinha. Are you sure you helped carry those bags?
Keep well Dad xx
2 to the power of 10 favelas? Really? You got my attention!
I remember Rio being a bit too sharp and maybe impersonal for me. On the other hand, the geography of the city is incomprehensibly amazing, I think.
Despite the hustle Rio though, my experience of Brazil was that in many other places, a bit off the beaten track, it is often full of the most warm people. Even if you don’t speak the local lingo, so many people can be so welcoming and charismatic and just talk with you until you start picking up a few words.
I wasn’t in Brazil in high summer, but Ipanema looks pretty nice.
I agree with all of that JZ. 2 to the 10 favelas got my attention as well! The physical layout of the city is amazing, but we found it a bit busy and inpersonal as well. Elsewhere in Brazil the people are really friendly, our Portugese is dreadful though, so we dont really know what anyone is saying to us – maybe everyone is being rude about us!
Glad you made it to Rio and good to see you both looking well. At the risk of getting shot here – Ipanema does look a bit like Benidorm!! And being very ignorant – what is a caipirinha?? Statue of Christ very impressive though. Love Mum
We thought the same actually – it does look a bit like Benidorm! A caipirinha is an alcoholic drink made with cachaça sugar and limes. Rach loves them, I’m torn, they are nice for a cocktail, but I still like an ice cold beer!
You did very well braving Rio to begin with without crying – I would have!! Nice cocktail always makes things seem wee bit better! me, Sam, Jacks, V, Clare and Karen went to cafe Buenos Aires the other weekend and we thought of you! x
Cheers Lins, we are going back to Buenos Aires next week. We will be sure to hunt down cafe London and have a pint of Young Special and toast you all!
Caiprinhas rule!